Digitize Your Art
If your art is on paper or canvas (or any other physical media) you’ll need to digitize the work so it can be printed. While it may be tempting to use your cell phone, top-quality results require a top-quality process to get your artworks into the computer. I employ some of the best tech and the best practices to ensure your art is faithfully reproduced to your exacting standards.
I use a Canon R5 camera and the Canon RF 100mm macro lens to photograph your art. The high resolution of this camera along with its stellar image quality when paired with this lens ensures a beautiful capture of your artworks.
If you plan to reproduce your works very large I can photograph the piece in segments and then combine them together in the computer. This is the same technique used by the finest museums when they digitize their collections. To be clear, I won’t be able to produce a 717 Giga-Pixel rendition of your art. I’m just giving you an example of the similar technique I’ll use as needed to get more resolution for your art reproduction needs 🙂
I manually fine-tune all settings for an exquisite capture of your art.
the Studio Lights
It’s hugely important to control every aspect of the lighting so that your art is evenly lit while also ensuring that the overall aesthetic of the work is not lost. I will work to preserve the texture or depth of your work while keeping a tight control on color accuracy.
I’ll also make a test shot on a white board. This will help me correct for any minuscule differences in the lighting that might adversely affect the reproduction of your art.
The studio setup and all the details are customized to your art so that it reproduces with impeccable quality.
Color management is my middle name. OK, not really, but it might as well be. From the moment of capture through the entire post-production process I’m keeping an eye on all things color.
I even custom calibrate the camera/lens combo so I have the best starting point for color accuracy. I test the lighting so I know exactly what color those are. And I use calibrated screens and printers too. It’s all very tightly controlled so we don’t have any surprises. We simply have good, pure, accurate reproduction of the color in your art.
By keeping stringent controls on color management you’re assured predictable and accurate reproduction of your art.
With the studio and color management taken care of, we turn to the computer to make sure your art is faithfully reproduced.
I’ll keep your artwork handy so that I can make the subtle adjustment needed to bring out the most accurate reproduction possible. Paying attention to texture and surface details while also ensuring top-quality color is my goal in this stage.
Your art is transformed into a digital masterpiece.
test Prints round 1
While each step of the process has been tightly controlled it’s important to get some test prints out and analyze them for authentic color reproduction.
These will be on the exact material you’re intending to print on for the final piece.
I’ll print a segment at 100% so that you can see the fine details as it will be reproduced. I’ll also print the entire item scaled down so you can judge the overall color accuracy.
I’ll make adjustments as needed and we’ll go from here. Usually I only need to make small adjustments to the color. However, your feedback is critical at this point. If you’re a local artist I’ll have you come in and we’ll discuss it. If not I can ship these to you so you can see them yourself.
It’s our job to work together to ensure we’re holding true to your goals you have with your art.
test Prints round 2
With your feedback on the initial test printing I’ll make a full-size test print. It should be perfect but as needed we’ll continue making adjustments until it’s just right.
Art Digitizing Costs and Policies
There’s always a lot of options to consider when creating fine quality prints from your photography. These recommendations will apply to any software you use. Please use the form below if you have any questions about anything.
I recommend you send your photographs to me as a flattened TIFF file. It’ll leave your colors uncompressed and it’ll give you the opportunity for top-quality reproductions. Leave it 16-bit as well. If you’re not confident in what this means please either contact me or use a JPG file.
JPG files are also great. Be sure to select the top quality compression which is either 100% if you’re using a program like Lightroom Classic or level 12 if you’re using Photoshop.
This one can be a bit of a mystery sometimes. I’ll list the options and then explain the pros and cons behind each one.
This is the smallest color space, however, it’s still pretty good for most prints. Use this color space if you don’t have a calibrated screen and if you’re rather new to digital imaging. It’s a great color space for making beautifully punchy images. However, my printers have a greater color capabilities than what this color space allows for so I recommend using the others if possible. If you’re sending a JPG file, please use this color space as well.
For most clients this is my preferred color space. It is capable of reproducing way more color options as compared to sRGB and many top-quality monitors support about 95% or more of AdobeRGB color space. Use this option if your screen is calibrated. You’ll be able to take advantage of an enhanced level of color fidelity over sRGB. The differences are usually subtle but for top-quality work it’s the best option for us to work with.
Use this color space if your screen is calibrated and if you are comfortable “talking shop” with all things color. This is my preferred color space, however, on some images the printers are simply incapable of reproducing some colors in ProPHOTO and you’ll notice one of two things. Either the out-of-gamut colors will clip and the results may look a little odd, or colors overall will shift slightly to accommodate for those out of gamut colors. It all depends on which rendering intent is used to make the image.
My default practice is to use Relative Rendering Intent. This leaves all in-gamut colors unaffected, but it clips out of gamut colors. Sometimes it’s better to use Perceptual Rendering Intent, but if we do this be forewarned that color shifts can happen to the in-gamut colors.
I will alert you if I notice any troubles with how the color will be reproduced. The default will be to use Relative Rendering Intent.
If you would like to soft-proof your photos please get in touch. We’ll discuss your project and then I’ll forward you the proper icc profile.
Please be sure you do not assign this profile to your image. Your image should be sRGB, Adobe RGB, or, ProPHOTO RGB only.
I invite you to make things simple and just send over your full resolution file. I can crop it to size for the print size you desire. Doing so, however, may result in me getting the crop wrong. Therefore I encourage you to crop your image to your exact specifications.
Making your file size match the exact size you’re wanting to print is the best practice. For example, if you want a 24×36 inch paper print, please size it exactly to 24×36 inches at 300 ppi. The default will be to make a borderless print.
You may also set it to 240 ppi but this resolution would only be recommended for very large prints or subjects that don’t require the best possible rendering of subtle details.
If you wish for a canvas to be printed you’ll need to add the border to the file size as well. For example, if you want a 24×36 inch canvas, you’ll need a 2 inch border which makes the file 28×40 inches. This allows for the canvas to wrap around the stretcher bars.
If your file does not have enough resolution to achieve the print size you’re hoping for please contact me using the form below. We’ll discuss the options and make a plan. If you use a software app such as Topaz Labs Gigapixel AI you should be good to go within reason. (i.e. if you wanted a multi-panel wall paper rendition of a cell phone pic to stretch over that 15 foot wall in your home or office it probably won’t work, but if you wanted to take your 24MP file and up-size it to fit the 44″ width of my printer you’d be fine.)
Painting and Mixed Media:
For all types of physical pieces such as painted canvases, mixed media boards and the like, I can photograph your art in the studio for a quality reproduction. Please see the page that describes all the details.
Depending on the size of your digital file you can either email it to me or use a service like Dropbox or WeTransfer to send a large file.
While it might seem that there’s an endless supply of different media to print onto, I have chosen only to use what I consider to be the best products available. These are products by Breathing Color and Canson Infinity.
Got a question about anything related to getting your artwork printed?
Please use this form to reach out and I’ll get back to you soon. I look forward to working with you to get your artwork printed.